FAQ's

FAQs

Air/fuel Ratio Calibrators
*Where is the best place to hook up power and ground?*
	The source for +12V must be switched by the ignition and solid during cranking. Many +12V circuits sag or go away during cranking in order to provide maximum power to the starter motor. Such circuits must be avoided. The +12V that powers the ECU is usually a good choice. We frequently show ground tied to chassis ground or battery negative for convenience. Generally the best place to ground a signal calibrator is the signal ground for the sensor that is being calibrated. This will provide the greatest stability an accuracy.
*What is the best Fuel Mixture for making power?*
	To this day engine tuners still cannot agree on which air/fuel mixture is the best. We believe to achieve max power without damaging the engine, the desired air/fuel mixture would be around 13.2:1 or the first blue led on the ARM1 display. Forced induction motors should be run at a more rich setting for safety. We recommend mixtures between 12.0:1 and 12.5:1.
*Where should I put the knobs on the ARC1 for starting the engine the first time?*
	The knobs should be placed at the 12 o'clock position. Then follow the starting procedure.
*What is the starting procedure on the ARC1?*
	With the knobs at the 12 o'clock position, start the engine. Adjust the low knob until the engine seems to run the best. Wait until the engine reaches operating temperature before following this next step. Raise the engine rpm to 3000. At this rpm adjust the high knob by viewing the ARM1 display for your desired air/fuel mixture. Bring the engine back down to idle. Depending on the adjustment it is not uncommon to readjust the low knob. It is now safe to drive the engine. Find a safe place for this next step. Accelerate your vehicle while paying attention to your ARM1. If you notice that the meter is displaying a lean mixture, adjust the high setting for proper air/fuel mixture. While at max load and rpm adjust the high knob to your desired air/fuel mixture. Depending on the adjustment you gave the high knob you might have to adjust the low knob, these knobs are interactive. Fill free to repeat this procedure as necessary.
*What kind of signal does the ARC1 need to operate correctly?*
	Both ARC1 and ARC2 use a 0-5V signal. The signal is an output from your stock MAP or MAF sensor. The ARC1 intercepts the signal output from these sensors and with the knobs it allows you to adjust the air/fuel mixture.
*Will the ARC1 work with other signals?*
	The standard ARC1 will work with a 5-0V signal. There are optional versions available that will work with late model GM or Karman Vortex signals.
*Which ARC should I buy?*
	The primary difference between the ARC1 and ARC2 is the Mid and Accel controls. The ARC2 has more resolution and was designed for converting the vane type flow sensor to hot wire (MAF) sensor. The ARC1 allows you to change your injectors, convert to a larger air flow sensor, change to a different MAP sensor, convert from a Karman vortex sensor to a hot wire sensor, or install components on your engine to improve performance except a camshaft. The ARC2 will do the same as the ARC1 and more. The ARC2 will allow you to modify your engine a little more aggressively including camshaft changes, larger valves, ported cylinder head, and more.
Timing Map Controllers
*What do the RPM low and high knobs do on the TMC1?*
	The RPM low and high knobs override the amount of retard. If you want less retard at low RPMs, rotate the RPM low knob counterclockwise. When rotated all the way (+20%) the TMC1 will give back 20% of the timing advance that it would otherwise take out. For example, if the combination of boost and settings were to give you a retard of 10 degrees with RPM low set at zero, rotating the RPM low knob to +20% would result in a retard of 8 degrees. The retard will still be 10 degrees at high RPMs.
	Fuel/Timing Calibrators
*My PC does not have a 9-pin com port. How do I hook up the FTC1?*
	Many new PCs do not have a com port. You can obtain an inexpensive adaptor cable with driver software that utilizes your USB port to provide the serial com port function.
*Why can't I connect from my PC to the FTC1?*
	The three most common reasons for the FTC1 not connecting are:
	1) The FTC1 does not have power, check the RED and BLACK wires.
	2) The wrong com port is selected on the main screen of the R4 program.
	3) The cable is not a straight through serial cable. It must be a straight through cable with a male DB9 on one end and a female on the other.
Additional Injector Controllers
*What is the difference between the absolute and gauge pressure units?*
	The absolute pressure units are recommended for most applications. These units can read the entire vacuum region and up to 16 PSI in the boost region. The AP units provide inherent elevation compensation. In other words, at higher elevations, the box will provide less fuel. Because of the reduction in air molecules at high elevations, the reduction in fuel results in the correct fuel mixture. The gauge pressure units are used in applications where the boost exceeds 16 PSI.
Air/fuel Ratio Meters
*Will the ARM1 work with leaded fuels?*
	The ARM1 will work with leaded fuels but you will not get the full life span out of the O2 sensor. Typical life span of a O2 sensor is 50,000 miles. The life span used with leaded fuel is about 1 year.
*Will the ARM1 work with Methanol?*
	The ARM1 will work with Methanol. Although you use twice as much fuel, the O2 sensor measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas stream.
*Is it ok for the ARM1 meter to display a lean mixture while cruising on the freeway?*
	Yes it is ok for the engine to cruise at about 15.0:1 to 16.0:1. You will not damage the engine at this air/fuel ratio as long as it is a light load or a light cruise like on the freeway. You probably will see your best mileage at that mixture.
*Where is the best place to mount the ARM1?*
	There is no particular place to mount this device. We prefer that it would be mounted in plain sight for your convenience.
*I installed your ARM1 but all is does is sweep back and fourth, what gives?*
	When your fuel is properly adjusted and your ECU is operating in closed-loop mode, the display on the ARM1 will sweep back and forth (dither). This will normally occur at idle, light cruise (constant speed) and during moderate acceleration. At wide open throttle the ECU typically goes open-loop and the ARM1 will display the fuel mixture. The dither pattern can be used to adjust the fuel mixture. When too far off, the display will not dither at all. It will stick on the lean or rich side. When close, it will favor one side or the other. When properly set, the dither will be smooth and balanced.
MAF Kits
*Is it OK to put a cone filter on the end on the MAF sensor?*
	It is not recommended. The MAF sensor will make a far more accurate measurement of air flow if there is a run of tubing or enclosed air box upstream of the sensor. This is because there is a more orderly and predictable flow pattern through the sensor. It is also recommended that every effort be made to preserve a cold air intake.
*You offer two types of calibrators for MAF kits. Which is better for me?*
	The ARC2-A front panel adjustable calibrator is a lot simpler to adjust. You can do a street tune in about a half an hour and be very close to the best possible settings that you would end up with on a dyno. The PSC1-004 is a lot more versatile and precise. It will do a much better job of accommodating aggressive engine and fuel system modifications. However it requires knowledge about engine mapping and a lot more time than the ARC2-A in order to set up properly.
*Do I need an air temp sensor with my MAF kit?*
	The ARC2-A and PSC1-004 calibrators have a gray wire that can be connected to the temp sensor input to the ECU. The resistance on the gray wire tells the ECU that the air is a constant temperature. This is adequate for many installations in mild climates. Cold start performance can be improved in many cases by adding a dedicated IAT sensor.
Boost Controllers
*What are the differences between the 1.8T BCS and a chip?*
	The advantages of a chip are that you have several to choose from, the chip can alter everything to do with engine operation like fuel curve, timing curve, boost, speed limit and RPM limit. The chip does not require that you connect or cut any wires on your car. On the other hand, the BCS is about half the price of most chips. It can be installed in a few hours whereas the chip involves removing the ECU from the car and sending it away. This process usually takes at least 3 days. The BCS is adjustable which is especially nice if you are running regular unleaded fuel, are on slippery roads, take your car in for service or lend your car to someone. The BCS also provides a boost gauge so you can see how much boost you arte making at all times. Other features of the BCS are that it has an EO number form CARB making it smog legal. It does absolutely nothing until you reach 3/4 throttle. This means that the drivability, emissions and fuel economy will be stock most of the time. The additional boost provided by the BCS ramps in only when demanded by wide open throttle. Therefore the character of the car is unchanged until you need the additional power for passing, merging etc.
*Your data is based on 150 hp 1.8T performance. What are the performance gains on the 2002 180 hp cars?*
	The 1.8T BCS is being offered for all 2002 models except the A4 and Passat. The performance gains at the wheels on the 2002 cars is around 30hp and 40 ft-lbs.
*How does the installation of the BCS go?*
	The installation of the BCS involves getting to the ECU in the car. The covers on the two connectors on the ECU are removed so you can see the rows of pins on the connectors. You identify the correct wires to connect to by connector location and wire color code. All connections are made to the wiring harness about 8 inches from the ECU. Four connections are T-taps made using two part T-tap connectors that ware provided. One wire in the car's wire harness is cut. Each side of the cut wire is connected to wires to the BCS. There are a total of seven connections.
*Who can install the BCS?*
	The BCS can be installed by a knowledgeable end user. We recommend that the installer be familiar with automotive wiring. A person comfortable installing a car stereo or alarm can generally do the job. For those people who are not comfortable doing the install we recommend having the install done by a reputable performance shop. Roughly half of our customers do the install themselves.
*Will installation of the BCS void my warranty?*
	Warranty coverage is up to individual dealers. Some dealers promote, sell and install the BCS. Others refuse to work on a car that has a BCS installed. We recommend that you consult your dealer about warranty coverage.
*Can I use the BCS and a chip together?*
	The 1.8T BCS is offered as an alternative to chipping. Most people choose one or the other. The BCS is designed to increase the boost over and above the level set by the computer. The BCS is not designed to turn down the boost set by the ECU. If you have a chip that increases the boost to 11 or 12 PSI, you will still see some benefit from the BCS. The BCS will not be able to add performance if your chip raises the boost to 14.5 PSI or higher. At that point you would benefit from the boost gauge only.
Signal Clamps
*Which voltage clamp is better, the VC1 or VC2?*
	The VC2 is recommended over the VC1 for all applications. It is user adjustable so it can be set exactly to the correct level. It is also far more accurate. It will do a much better job of maintaining the desired clamp level over temperature and as the input increases.
*How do I know where the VC2 is set?*
	You can measure the clamp level of the VC2 by connecting the red and blue wires to +12V and the black wire to ground. Measure the voltage on the blue/red wire. This is the clamp level. It can be adjusted from 2.5V to 6V.
Signal Conditioners
*How does the ESC1 work?*
	The ESC1 connects to the pre-cat oxygen sensors. When the manifold pressure reaches 1 PSI of boost, the ESC1 sends a signal to the ECU that puts it into open loop mode.
*What if I only have one pre-cat oxygen sensor?*
	It has two channels so that it can operate with two sensors. If you have only one pre-cat sensor, you only need to use one channel of the ESC1. The wires for the other channel can be left disconnected
Sensors
*Where should I mount the EGO1 sensor?*
	The best place to mount the exhaust gas oxygen sensor would be in the collector or where the exhaust pipes join together. This will give a clear sample of your fuel mixture. Air/fuel measurements should not be made after the catalytic converter.
*How do I select the correct size for my MAF sensor?*
	The primary benefit of conversion from an air flow meter to an MAF sensor is that the MAF sensor is far less restrictive. The larger the MAF sensor, the less restrictive it is. Larger MAF sensors are calibrated for higher horsepower engines. Select an MAF sensor that matches the size of your tubing and the target horsepower of your engine. Switching to a larger MAF sensor is one way to get a better initial match for larger injectors.